Monthly Archives: August 2016

Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology

Manus x Machina - fashion exhibition at the Costume Institute Metropolitan Museum of Art New York

Past the galleries of Medieval art, with fairy tales narrated by the tapestries on their walls, and welcomed by a short glimpse of the most beautiful Chinese ceramics, the Metropolitan Museum of Art exhibits the Costume Institute’s latest creation: Manus x Machina. The exhibition, which transformed the renown Lehman wing into the cupola of a Florentine Renaissance church, opens with the dress that inspired it. Designed by Karl Lagerfeld as the closing garment for his autumn/winter 2014-15 haute couture collection for Chanel, and made with synthetic diving-suit material, its surface soft as a whale’s skin, the dress extends about 6 metres backward, its train showcasing the most perfect intersection of manus and machina. The brocaded pattern was first hand-drawn by Lagerfeld, then pixelated with a computer aid. Rhinestones were inserted using a heat press, and the gold paint and pearls were embroidered by hand, taking the artisans no less than 450 hours of manual labor in the completion of this masterpiece. If the dress presents a pregnant figure, made specifically for the model who wore it down the catwalk a few years ago, it also presents the conception of the most recent creative vision of the curatorial genius that is Andrew Bolton, curator in chief of the Costume Institute.

Theorizing Fashion: Short Review of Colombiamoda 2016

In many ways, Colombiamoda 2016 reflected the state of contemporary creative culture in the country. This, culture influenced by the legacy of “easy-doing” promoted particularly during the last half century by drug trafficking and violence, seems to be carried in the veins of the Colombian peoples since the settling of Mozarabic Spaniards during the Colony. And, despite seeming ready to face the world, especially in terms of fashion, the Colombian creative culture is yet to wake up. But more that highlighting some of the problems of Colombian fashion, something that “critics” trying to find their 15 minutes of fame have already done for me, I want to highlight the good things, those that make me believe that someday—hopefully not too far away—fashion will become an aspect of Colombian pride, both inside the country and abroad.